fighting rules.

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REGULAR FIGHTING RULES

1. You can fight in-character about anything except OOC disputes/problems. Try not to pick fights too much though because people can get annoyed.

2. Just PM someone or let the fight gradually get started by provoking (or just randomly attacking) someone's character in roleplay to start a fight with them.

3. Lost battles: You can lose a fight by letting your character give up, but remember no one can say they killed your character unless you gave them permission. You can also lose by not replying to the thread in 14 days (unless you posted away) if the fight was still underway.

4. The fights can be judged by admins & staff if you want, but usually this is reserved for alpha challenges. If you want a fight judged, just PM an admin or mod.

5. Game as it might be for you, some people or characters take fights seriously, so be careful of you who challenge! If you want to challenge an alpha read the next rules section.

6. As said before, only with permission can you kill someone's character. If permission is given, make sure that's known in your post somewhere so staff don't get confused.

7. No power-playing, god-moding, auto-hitting, etc.

8. Now read the first words of rules 1 through 5.

FIGHTING ALPHAS

1. Your wolf must be 3 years old to challenge an alpha.

2. Males can challenge females, but only if the female is a single alpha (and vice-versa).

3. If an alpha loses, his or her mate (if they have one) is demoted with them. The new alpha can choose who his partner will be.

4. Alphas can only be challenged after they've ruled for 14 days.

5. Alphas who lose and have young pups should consider moving their offspring to a safer location. The new alpha could choose to kill the pups since they were former heirs and may come back to rightfully claim what was theirs when they're older.

6. To challenge, PM an admin saying you'd like to challenge _blank_ of the _blank_ pack. Wait until an admin gives you the okay, and once permission is given you can PM the alpha saying you'll be starting a challenge thread in their board. The fight can begin after that.

7. There is no dodge or attack limit, but remember dodging too much can cost points. We grade on technique, not the grammar or amount of words you use.

8. In the beginning of the fight it would be smart for each wolf to list their terms if they win.

9. Alphas who are challenged and win the fight have 7 days to rest before they are allowed to be challenged again.

10. If 7 days have gone by without a reply from one of the roleplayers, that roleplayer automatically loses the fight.

11. Death fights are allowed but only if both roleplayers agree to it.

12. We do not count posts against you until one of the characters attacks.

13. If you're having trouble getting on GC for whatever reason to reply to your fight, whether it be because you have no muse or you're just busy, PM an admin!

14. In the case of a tie, each roleplayer will be required to post an additional roleplay post which will, hopefully, break the tie.

15. MAKE SURE you read the "Taking Over a Pack" and "Losing a Pack" rules in the Pack Formations thread also.

16. Temporary alphas, or those who are holding over a pack while the alpha is absent, have full immunity from alpha challenges.

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Taking Over a Pack

1. If you fight an alpha and win, the pack's name cannot be changed. Icons, ranks, rules, and nearly everything else can, however.

2. You cannot relocate the pack.

3. Members of the pack have the right to leave and follow their leader, however, if less than 5 members stays behind with the new alpha, the challenger cannot take charge of the pack and must either rejoin or challenge another pack.

Losing Your Pack

1. If you're a leader who was challenged for rank and lost, and more than 5 wolves decides to stay loyal to you, you can create a new pack.

2. To create the new pack you must fill out the Pack Formation form.

3. If you can't or decide not to create another pack, you may challenge the wolf who took over your pack as many times as you want until you win or give up, however you must rest 7 days after each battle. If you challenge you cannot start another pack unless you buy one.

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Fighting Techniques
-these can apply to wolves but mostly for cats.

back kick:
explosive surprise move to catch opponent from behind. judge opponent's distance from you carefully; then lash out with your back legs, taking your weight on your front paws.


belly rake:
a fight-stopped. slice with unsheathed claws across soft flesh of opponent's belly. if you're pinned down, the belly rake quickly puts your back in control.


front paw blow:
frontal attack. bring your front paw down hard on your opponent's head. claw's unsheathed.


front paw strike:
frontal attack. slice downward with your front paw at the body or face of your opponent. claws unsheathed.


killing bite:
a death blow to the back of the neck. quick and silent and sometimes considered dishonorable. used only as a last resort.


leap-and-hold:
ideal for a small cat facing a large opponent. spring onto opponent's back and grip with unsheathed claws. now you are beyond the range of your opponent's paws and in position to inflict severe wounds. a group of apprentices can defeat a large and dangerous warrior in this way. watch for the drop-and-roll counter move, and try to jump free before you get squashed.


partner fighting:
warriors who have trained and fought together will often instinctively fall into a paired defensive position, each protecting the other's back while fending off an opponent on either side. slashing, clawing, and leaping together, battle pairs can be a whirlwind of danger for the attackers.


play dead:
effective in a right situation, such as when you are pinned. stop struggling and go limp. when your opponent relaxes his grip, thinking you are defeated, push yourself up explosively. this will throw off an unwary opponent and put you in an attacking position.


scruff shake:
secure a strong teeth grip in the scruff of your opponent's neck; then shake violently until he or she is too rattled to fight back. most effective against rats, which are small enough to throw. a strong throw will stun or kill them.


teeth grip:
target your opponent's extremities-the legs, tail, scruff, or ears-and stink your teeth and hold. this move is similar to the leap-and-hold except your claws remain free to fight.


upright lock:
final, crushing move on already weakened opponent. rear up on back legs and bring full weight down on opponent. if opponent does same, wrestle and flip him under you. this move make you vulnerable to the belly rake, so requires great strength and speed.